I use bore paste for other applications beyond bore cleaning. It is a wonderfully effective lapping compound when fitting tight components, such as slide to frame on a 1911 pistol.
I begin by cleaning with Dicro-Clean 909 and then immersion in the boiling water tank, followed by applying the IM. I return the workpiece to the boiling water tank and five minutes later I card with steel wool in the normal manner.
With all the foreign ammo for the AR available there is some that have that lacquer coating. After some rapid firing if a fresh round is left in the chamber it can literally glue itself to the wall of the chamber.
I make a fixture by cutting a 16” x7” x1/2” plywood base and gluing a 2.5” x 7” piece of hardwood square to the plywood.
I got in an old S&W 5-screw N-frame that was throwing past the stop on DA and SA due to wear. It badly needed a new cylinder stop, the original being rounded over.
To keep ambi safeties on 1911's from separating, I often dress the interlocking ends and squeeze the female end to get a tight fit.
Occasionally a customer brings in an AK kit and a receiver that is not drilled for the trunnion rivets. I made a drill guide by drilling through (3/32") a short AK rivet in the lathe and case hardening it.
Gentlemen- as you said, the sorbathane shock absorber "flows when not contained," and makes quite a mess in the mag tube.
My little tidbit is this.
I've taken the Brownells sleeved scope alignment tool to a machinist and had him drill a 0.250" hole dead center in the longer of the two inserts.
This is my way of creating the master lines for your checkering projects. I have a 5X magnifier on an extension arm. Take a straight line laser (used for making a line on the wall while hanging pictures) and place it on top of the 5X magnifier with duct tape.
I have been sitting on this modification to the Power’s trigger jig for quite some years and just now getting around to doing something about it.
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